Equalising and cylindrical

Hi everyone, I am Chandru from south india. Let I dive directly to facts, My prescription were as follows
Right eye -1.75 spherical with -0.5 cylinder at 180 axis
Left eye -2.25 spherical and no cylinder correction

As it is low myopic now I am not using glasses for closeups. Regularly practicing active focus and 20-20-20 rule for last 20 days And going to buy a reduced dioptre glasses.

From my observation, using DIY method my actual eye power is
Right eye -1.50 and left eye -2.00

I never going to ask you about my dioptre reduction I knew the rules, I just want to confirm what I learned from jake videos and wiki was right. My plan was to

Stage 1 : to reduce dioptre 0.25 for the both eyes.
Stage 2 : then to equalise left and right eye dioptre
Stage 3 : then reducing again with 0.25 both eyes
Stage 4 : when dioptre reaches -1.00 for both eyes, then take away the cylindrical correction for the glasses.

:thinking: Is this is correct, I have two doubts

  1. When it’s right time to equalise the eye power, when dioptre is say -1.50 or when it’s below -1.00. when it can be easily achieved
  2. When to take away the cylindrical correction in glasses.
    if anyone can explains how you gone through, it can help me
    Thankyou.
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Welcome to the forum @Chandru

Reasonable. What’s your distance from the screen? Don’t forget to work on keeping a good distance from the monitor and then maintain it long term.

As for your plan, my opinion only, but it seems to be more common to drop the cyl first and equalise later. Keep in mind that cyl drops and equalising steps typically take longer than sph diopter drops. Also it is better to have a few diopter drops under your belt before attempting equalising, as equalising is really demanding on the brain. It helps if you have a reference point of clarity for the desired result.

Note: with such a small cyl as yours, many people in the forum would recommend dropping the cyl with the first pair of normalised and just going for your actual eye power you measured and no cyl.

Typically the recommendation is to equalise before you reach the last diopter. Having said that, when someone starts from -2D only then it makes more sense to equalise around -0.75D
Check this post for a real life example. :sweat_smile:

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Thanks a ton @BiancaK