I believe this is done. Please let me know what you think.
I hope it’s accurate and true to the endmyopia method. I think I’ve covered most of the basic information, but if I have left something out, or something is not accurate. Please let me know.
I’m hopping to give this as a guide to any of my friends or family that would like to try this out.
I’m not sure if the flyer is sufficient for people who have never heard of EM. For the already familiar ones, it could be a cheat sheet sort of.
I’m thinking of getting EM visiting cards done with a short description and site link and give out to parents of small kids I see wearing spectacles. Since its going to be unsolicited, and probably going to make me look like a sleazy snake oil seller I would do it only to save kids
Good light, first thing in the morning before any close up work, one eye measured at a time, (don’t close the eye, cover it) back up slowly until really blurry move forward until clear move back until just a tiny bit blurry then measure distance to text in cm. Do not engage in active focus just relax your eye and go with what comes up first without doing active focus. Right now I measure 170 cm I can actIve focus to 230cm. So it can mess up your measurements.
I would say yes to both eyes, but also with each eye individually, and no to near a sunlit window or outside,. Even on a cloudy day the sun advantage is deceptive, making it easier to have overly optimistic measurements. and end up reducing too quickly. Measuring with the ideal circumstances (morning, sun etc) isn’t the most complete picture of your vision. So I usually go with sunny days for my snellen, indoors and indirect light away from the window. I do cm at night in full artificial light. when the two line up consistently I know I can reduce, Though I will cross check against the chart in full artificial light as well
Thanks @Robert72. Yes I use cm. to measure for reductions. Their are a lot of options. An eye doctor, a test lens kit, you can buy machines I think that measure your axial length. People in the forum have done it several different ways. Centimeter measurements were free and simple. I started at -2, so it allowed for a large enough range that if I was off by a few cm., It wasn’t that big of a deal. If I had started in higher diopters I probably would have opted for a test lens kit, or if I had started with high astigmatism. I also had an optometrists prescription to go off of as a starting reference. It takes a while, but just dive in. You will become more confident and comfortable with your measurements as you go. With the eye chart. It’s actually in my hall, so mostly artificial light. I can usually see the 20/30 or 20/40 line inside. I mostly just use it to verify once I got my normalized that I had a good blur challenge. In the lower diopter range it’s harder to be at the perfect blur challenge, because the distance between each step is greater. Good luck