Question about axial reduction

Hey community members could anyone explain me what you actually do to make 0.25 reduction in your normalized glasses so that you see 20/20 line on the snllen what tool you use and what you exactly do to make 0.25 reduction.

You buy a new pair of glasses that are 0.25 diopters weaker than the previous ones. :man_shrugging:t2:


You mean instead of you reading the basics on the blog or watching a few YouTube videos that Jake has up? Naaawwww :grin:

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i mean to say that for axial length reduction on which thing you do active focus on an eye chart, book or computer screen.

Ah… I guess I misunderstood your question :sweat_smile:
I practice AF on everything. It’s important to do this during distance vision, and Jake says it’s easiest to do if you look at text (but other things work also). So, once you’ve discovered AF, you should start out with license plates of cars, street signs, etc. The ideas is that you start using AF all day long during your daily activities.

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All I do is that I keep everything at the very edge of clarity and I hold that distance all day long - with screens, with books, with every day objects at home… With anything where it’s me who can set the distance. And when outdoors, in a meeting room, at a restaurant, etc - at places where I cannot set the distance - I establish the edge of clarity and the quality of clarity and over time the distance to clarity with street / office signs, number plates, departure boards, etc increases.

You’ve been around for quite a while now. Surely you have picked up that AF is not an exercise but a habit, a way of looking at things.

I think @gemilymez 's collection is the best to figure out the way it will work for you. But if her video is not enough she left further links in the description box.

Bottomline: when in front of screens, push the screen as far away as you can, to the edge of clarity before(!) it turns into blur and hold that distance all day. Same for books. You shouldn’t see blur at that distance. You should be at a point that if you move 2cms further away then it is blurry. But you will work those 8 to 10 hours at the furthest possible inside edge of clarity. Just within clarity. So definitely there should be no struggling with blur.

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Salute to you Mam.

Understood everything.

Hello community members

I want to know how you drive at night with the double image when you reduce -0.25 diopters and how you manage at night. Because at night you can’t drive at night with a double image.


You can wear your full correction for night or even day driving. Safety is of primary importance.

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I’m afraid you must have misunderstood something in the method. If you have double vision all the time then you dropped incorrectly - too much from sph or cyl or both.

When you drop, you should not have double vision. You should have a tiny blur challenge (see Note). Then you stay with that correction for 3-4 months with good vision habits, always improving on that tiny blur. And you may (or may not) have double vision for maybe 2 weeks at the end of those 3-4 months while the eyes and brain are cleaning up the last bits within the given drop. But even then, it is not a constant double vision, just a more noticeable one under certain conditions - depending on lights or tiredness.

Note on tiny blur challenge: Check your vision on a Snellen with your normalised on - indoors without direct sunlight on the chart. You should be able to read 20/40 or better with confidence (no mixing up of C and O or F and P, R or B). Then walk closer to Snellen. If it is a 3m one, walk to 1.5 meters / if a 6m one walk to 3 meters. You should see the 20/20 line well and clear and without any guessing. If you don’t have clear letters at half distance then your normalised is too low in sph or cyl or both.

You can’t and you should not.
For driving, especially at night: wear stronger glasses that give you 20/20 without guessing to be on the safe side. If your normalised are correctly chosen, this is typically an additional 0.5D or 0.75D.
Your myopia will not get worse by wearing slightly stronger glasses for pure real distance vision time.
So if driving in dark is regular for you, have a pair of driving glasses in the car.

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You are right I have reduced too fast and I am figuring out and collecting the knowledge so that I don’t want to take the next step wrong.

in the beginning, I had reduced using differentials and seeing a lot of double image after that I was seeing the 20/20 line on snellen using differentials. then I realised when I read further that I have done a big mistake by reducing using differentials.

Mam i want to ask you a question.

Is there harm happen to the retina.

Or can I start all over again using normalized glasses?

i am learning so that I can come out of this problem as soon as possible because this double image is running my life.

My each day is like a pain.

If you are in pain, worried for your retina and can’t figure out a correction that gives you clear vision without double vision then I definitely recommend visiting an opto to confirm that your eyes are healthy and what your current opto full correction should be.
Once these are confirmed, you can start the EM journey again by reducing from the new measurement for the differentials and then for the normalised.

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Alternate opinion: you can but probably should not. When I reduced too quickly, I was using glasses that barely gave me 20/40 or 20/50 in my non-dominant eye (under the official testing equipment) for night driving, while easily reading the same line with both eyes and my dominant eye, and lower lines were hard to read. The legal requirement in my area is 20/50 with both eyes open, which I met, but it was somewhat challenging to drive at night, although legal. I estimate that I had something like -0.5 sph -0.5 cyl (cyl is from transient astigmatism) of undercorrection, which is even worse than -0.75 undercorrection.

For night driving, I would now stay within 0.5 D of full correction (for example, if you are -2.1, then use -1.75 or -2, but if you are -2, then use -1.5 or -1.75 or -2), which is about 20/25 to 20/15, assuming it meets all legal requirements and you feel safe enough.

-1.5 D reduction in one step is too large. Just go back to old normalized or old normalized reduced by -0.25 until it’s all clear and then reduce by only -0.25 or -0.5. I reduced too much too, and that is what I am currently doing.

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Mam your answers are too good.

Could you please unhide your account? Well nobody knows where you are where you come from. You can maintain that privacy. Of course you can hide that. but I want to read your replies because I want to learn more.
Its a request if you do that.


In the beginning when i hadn’t read the blog fully. and tried the stuff by reading the half blog and also used plus lenses. i know its my biggest mistake because of less knowledge. Because I picked up half information from the blog and watched the todd becker video on youtube.

Mam, could you please tell me when I used the plus lenses. at that time when I wore my differentials, I was seeing the 20/20 line. At that time I also didn’t realize that I have done a mistake. when I read the blog further and read that don’t use plus lenses then I realized that I have done the mistake.

At that time when I was seeing the 20/20 line using differentials. Of course, I had reduced too fast. i tried to merge the double image and now i think there is a misalignment in my retina or visual cortex.

I am seeing the double image with my full correction contact lenses.

At this stage what should i do. can this misalignment can be corrected if I increase the correction.

I am asking you because you have dealt with so many people Of course some people had also done these kind of mistakes.

If a person have done these kind of mistakes what should be the next step.